I was on the train all day today from Bilbao. Orense is another lovely city, around the same size as Pamplona (200,000), which I think is a nice sized city. Already I´m eating dinner at 9:30 PM like the Spaniards. Who would have thought? Tomorrow is 28 km, so I´m starting early. Since I was completely wiped out the two days I did 22, I´m a bit anxious. But I tell myself, what´s 6 more km? Although I got rid of some weight, I just bought some food, as I´m not so sure what will be available tomorrow.
All´s well. I´m going to bed.
Janet
Monday, May 24, 2010
Sunday, May 23, 2010
From Bilbao, looking back on three days of walking the Camino
There are few opportunities to post. Often I thought: I´m so engaged in the experience that I don´t have time or energy to blog about it. But now I have a moment and a computer, so let me tell you about my amazing experience.
On the morning of May 18, I met a Spanish couple from Valencia who were doing their 5th Camino. I mentioned that I really did not want to wait until the 6 PM bus to leave for Roncesvalles, my starting point. The man advised me to go to the bus station and try to hook up with other perigrinos (pilgrims) so as to be able to split the taxi fare. After trying this for two hours, I gave up and just took a taxi on my own. I was so glad I did even though it was quite expensive (55 Euros). I got to Roncesvalles in time to see some things and get settled.
The history is so rich. Roncesvalles is where Charlemaign´s favorite night, Roland, was defeated in 789 AD. Ít´s not clear if it was by the Muslims or the Basques.
At the mass for pilgrims, I thought about the very long history of priests blessing pilgrims. The priest gave words of encouragement in about 6 or 7 difference languages including Japanese and Korean.
As so many others have noted, one of the great hightlights of walking the Camino is the friends you make. On my first day I walked with two young guys. Can (pronounced John) is a Turkish architect who last fall quit his respectable job as an architect because he felt his life lacked purpose, meaning and direction. I told him he was in very good company approaching the camino from such a place. He was carrying a broken film camera and multiple lenses. He hoped to get it fixed in Pamplona. Daniel is a young German, only 21 years old. When he told his mother he wanted to walk the camino, she said with surprise: But you never wanted to walk with me when I asked you to, so how come you want to do this? Mothers the world over would have this same question of a 21 year old! I said goodbye to Can and Daniel, but then ran into Daniel again on Day 3.
These three days of walking were long, long days. 22, 22, and 21 kilometers (13.2, 13.2 and 12.6 miles) took me 11, 10.5 and 11.5 respectively. I had a new understanding of the meaning of "bone tired." I was very pleased with having brought along a collapsible sink. Each day towards the middle of the day I soaked my feet in cold water, reapplied the Glide (friction reducer) and put on a clean pair of socks. All the pampering of the feet pays off! Also the trekking poles are absolutely essential. To think that I almost didn´t buy a new pair, I was going to bring one old one my dad had given me. Someone calculated how much force on your knees you reduce when going downhill by using these poles. Also, when ascending, you are using both triceps and gluteus maximus to go up a hill.
I met a guy from Bilbao on the bus from Pamplona to Bilbao. He had planned to do 10 stages, but was quitting after three because he hated "the race for the beds." He told me there was a mad rush each day, and all the Albergues were full by 4 PM. He felt people were not relaxed and enjoying the journey. He was quite disgusted. I have to say that I opted out of this by paying to stay in nicer and more expensive accomodations. When I first started reading about the Camino and heard about this¨"race for the beds" I thought that after a very strenous day, the last thing I wanted was uncertainty about whether I´d have a place to sleep, which is why I hired an Australian guide who helps perigrinos with their arrangements. The very best thing about this was that Garry sent me ahead of time annotated maps of where I was going to be going. This made all the difference.
I´m now at the hotel in Bilbao which Garry recommends. It´s called the Arriaga, and it´s near the theater by that name, right on the river. It´s very old, with lots of charm and is a family business. The 45 year old woman who helped me was born here! Her brother John was also extremely welcoming and helpful
Frank Gerhy´s building is truly amazing. Only the floor is flat, straight. Everything else is curved. My very favorite part of the experience was to have an audio guide with the voices of Frank Gerhy and the artists whose work was on display. Richard Serra created a truly amazing sculpture specifically for the biggest of the galleries.
It´s quite hot here. I have black nylon pants, which don´t breathe and of course absorb heat.
Tomorrow I take the train to Orense, and will get there in time to buy some lightweight, cotton pants.
I´m a little nervous about the five days of walking, and the idea of 18 miles in one day after how 13 miles felt..yikes! But this break has been very restorative. And I think of pilgrims who walk on day after day for 30 or more days to walk the whole Camino Frances. It will be a challenge.
I am walking this Camino in memory of six people who would so much have enjoyed walking the Camino: Peggy Ploss (1924-1992), Jim Ploss (1949-2006), Roberto Camopamor (1919-2003), Margot Campoamor (1923-2003), Heberto Sein ( -2001), and Georgina Simpson (1904-1992). Jim walked parts of the Camino in France, but he did not get to the portion in Spain.
Peg sent me a lovely picture of him on the Camino in France.
Janet
On the morning of May 18, I met a Spanish couple from Valencia who were doing their 5th Camino. I mentioned that I really did not want to wait until the 6 PM bus to leave for Roncesvalles, my starting point. The man advised me to go to the bus station and try to hook up with other perigrinos (pilgrims) so as to be able to split the taxi fare. After trying this for two hours, I gave up and just took a taxi on my own. I was so glad I did even though it was quite expensive (55 Euros). I got to Roncesvalles in time to see some things and get settled.
The history is so rich. Roncesvalles is where Charlemaign´s favorite night, Roland, was defeated in 789 AD. Ít´s not clear if it was by the Muslims or the Basques.
At the mass for pilgrims, I thought about the very long history of priests blessing pilgrims. The priest gave words of encouragement in about 6 or 7 difference languages including Japanese and Korean.
As so many others have noted, one of the great hightlights of walking the Camino is the friends you make. On my first day I walked with two young guys. Can (pronounced John) is a Turkish architect who last fall quit his respectable job as an architect because he felt his life lacked purpose, meaning and direction. I told him he was in very good company approaching the camino from such a place. He was carrying a broken film camera and multiple lenses. He hoped to get it fixed in Pamplona. Daniel is a young German, only 21 years old. When he told his mother he wanted to walk the camino, she said with surprise: But you never wanted to walk with me when I asked you to, so how come you want to do this? Mothers the world over would have this same question of a 21 year old! I said goodbye to Can and Daniel, but then ran into Daniel again on Day 3.
These three days of walking were long, long days. 22, 22, and 21 kilometers (13.2, 13.2 and 12.6 miles) took me 11, 10.5 and 11.5 respectively. I had a new understanding of the meaning of "bone tired." I was very pleased with having brought along a collapsible sink. Each day towards the middle of the day I soaked my feet in cold water, reapplied the Glide (friction reducer) and put on a clean pair of socks. All the pampering of the feet pays off! Also the trekking poles are absolutely essential. To think that I almost didn´t buy a new pair, I was going to bring one old one my dad had given me. Someone calculated how much force on your knees you reduce when going downhill by using these poles. Also, when ascending, you are using both triceps and gluteus maximus to go up a hill.
I met a guy from Bilbao on the bus from Pamplona to Bilbao. He had planned to do 10 stages, but was quitting after three because he hated "the race for the beds." He told me there was a mad rush each day, and all the Albergues were full by 4 PM. He felt people were not relaxed and enjoying the journey. He was quite disgusted. I have to say that I opted out of this by paying to stay in nicer and more expensive accomodations. When I first started reading about the Camino and heard about this¨"race for the beds" I thought that after a very strenous day, the last thing I wanted was uncertainty about whether I´d have a place to sleep, which is why I hired an Australian guide who helps perigrinos with their arrangements. The very best thing about this was that Garry sent me ahead of time annotated maps of where I was going to be going. This made all the difference.
I´m now at the hotel in Bilbao which Garry recommends. It´s called the Arriaga, and it´s near the theater by that name, right on the river. It´s very old, with lots of charm and is a family business. The 45 year old woman who helped me was born here! Her brother John was also extremely welcoming and helpful
Frank Gerhy´s building is truly amazing. Only the floor is flat, straight. Everything else is curved. My very favorite part of the experience was to have an audio guide with the voices of Frank Gerhy and the artists whose work was on display. Richard Serra created a truly amazing sculpture specifically for the biggest of the galleries.
It´s quite hot here. I have black nylon pants, which don´t breathe and of course absorb heat.
Tomorrow I take the train to Orense, and will get there in time to buy some lightweight, cotton pants.
I´m a little nervous about the five days of walking, and the idea of 18 miles in one day after how 13 miles felt..yikes! But this break has been very restorative. And I think of pilgrims who walk on day after day for 30 or more days to walk the whole Camino Frances. It will be a challenge.
I am walking this Camino in memory of six people who would so much have enjoyed walking the Camino: Peggy Ploss (1924-1992), Jim Ploss (1949-2006), Roberto Camopamor (1919-2003), Margot Campoamor (1923-2003), Heberto Sein ( -2001), and Georgina Simpson (1904-1992). Jim walked parts of the Camino in France, but he did not get to the portion in Spain.
Peg sent me a lovely picture of him on the Camino in France.
Janet
Friday, May 14, 2010
Nearly ready to pull out of town
I am excitedh and can hardly believe it. I have been packing and planning all year. Tomorrow I will get in my little Honda Fit with my two dogs and drive to Portland, OR to drop the dogs off where they will be very well cared for. I leave my car at my friend's house, and Sunday morning I fly Portland-Minneapolis-Atlanta-Madrid. I will see if they let me bring my trekking poles as part of my carry-on. Sometimes they are allowed, sometimes not. With two changes of planes, I'm nervous about checking them through to Madrid. I probably with pick up my duffle bag with pack in it in Atlanta, then recheck it. That way I'm sure that we both arrive in Madrid.
I'm full of so much gratitude. I'm glad that I am able to take such a vacation, and that I have a wonderful job that allows it and that I come back to.
I have basically lived on the Camino Forum, and I have learned so much from other pilgrims.
Well, company is arriving shortly -- not the best time for a house guest, but Fran Tittmann is a very old family friend and who knows when I'll get to see her again.
Still trying to learn how to sync photos and GPS waypoints, downloading them to www.everytrail.com. My ID there is thrivingontravel.
Thanks to all of you.
Janet
I'm full of so much gratitude. I'm glad that I am able to take such a vacation, and that I have a wonderful job that allows it and that I come back to.
I have basically lived on the Camino Forum, and I have learned so much from other pilgrims.
Well, company is arriving shortly -- not the best time for a house guest, but Fran Tittmann is a very old family friend and who knows when I'll get to see her again.
Still trying to learn how to sync photos and GPS waypoints, downloading them to www.everytrail.com. My ID there is thrivingontravel.
Thanks to all of you.
Janet
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